As Mohd Noor drives down Route 50 to his new position at The Boathouse Pulau Tioman, he reflects on the people and places along the way that continue to impact his life.

Route 50 begins in Batu Pahat. It cuts right across the peninsula and ends in the small town of Jemaluang in the Mersing district. What’s so special
about it, you ask? Well, for people living along the west coast of Malaysia, it’s one of the easiest ways to get to the town of Mersing and its surrounding islands. At the start of Route 50 is Masjid Jamek Sultan Ismail the largest mosque in Batu Pahat. Every time I see the familiar blue and white dome flanked on either side by matching minarets, I know I’m home.

Driving down Route 50

Masjid Jamek Sultan Ismail – Batu Pahat’s largest mosque

You see, I’m from Batu Pahat, born and bred. But my work in hospitality has taken me all around Malaysia. Now, Route 50 will lead me from home to Mersing and to my new role as Rooms Division Manager at The Boathouse Pulau Tioman.

Modh Noor at his new job at The Boathouse Pulau Tioman

BATU PAHAT: MY JOURNEY BEGINS

I left my hometown almost 30 years ago to study and then work. Wherever I was, I would come back every two months to see my mum.

“Noor, bila nak kahwin? Dah ada calon ke?” she would ask. I’m the youngest of nine and the only one not married, so naturally she was anxious.

“Career first, mak. Cannot support a wife with no money, right?” I would say. She would agree and that would be the end of it…until my next visit.

If you ask me, Batu Pahat still looks pretty much the same. It is the second largest urban area in Johor with many Chinese as well as Malays and Indians living here. It’s a harmonious town, always was and still is. You can see a mosque, a church and Chinese and Indian temples close to each other. Together with Kluang, we make up the over 700,000 people of central Johor.

Bila nak kahwin? Dah ada calon ke? — When are you getting married? Do you have anyone in mind?
Mak — Mother

One landmark is the Batu Pahat Bridge, where you can enjoy a nice view of the town across the river with the mountains in the background. In the past, the town folk would cross the river in a small sampan . Speaking of sampans, my friend’s father had one. Once, we took it without asking him and rowed through the mangroves to Pulau Pisang. It was a deserted island with lots of banana trees. Thinking back, it could have been quite dangerous, but thankfully we were okay. Whenever I see the bridge, I will remember that experience.

My father was a fisherman. He would wake up at 3am and cycle to work. Hearing the motorboat in those hours meant that he was on his way out to sea. It could be two weeks before he returned. Till today, the sound of a motorboat reminds me of him. He shared his boat with other fishermen, so I’d like to think that it is still plying the waterways somewhere as he once did.

If you follow Route 50 just a little way down from the mosque, you will see the Tan Swee Hoe Mansion. You can’t miss it. It’s a huge mansion that’s now in ruins. I was a teenager when I first snuck in to take photos. It transports you to a different era. The Johor China Press reported that the Sultan of Johor, and our current Agong , now owns it. So maybe it will get a new lease of life soon.

Ruins of the Tan Swee Hoe Mansion

Batu Pahat gave me a lot of firsts—my first movie experience at the now-defunct Odean Cinema, my first taste of working life at one of the embroidery factories, my first hotel job…oh, and my first taste of KFC. That was Batu Pahat’s first fast-food restaurant. My sister gave me a treat because I got good results. For us, it was expensive, so she bought me one drumstick. Just one. I ate it very slowly. It was so precious.

Batu Pahat’s first international fast-food restaurant, KFC

Sampan — A wooden boat propelled by oars
Agong — King of Malaysia

KLUANG: EASTWARD BOUND

When I was 16, my sister got married and moved to Kluang. Route 50 was how I got to see her. I would hop on a bus to visit her by myself during the school holidays.

Nowadays, it’s quite developed. But back then, after leaving Batu Pahat, Route 50 had nothing but trees and a few old houses until I reached Parit Raja. I would go to the local market there to buy kerepek . Banana chips were and still are my favourite. Just thinking about them makes my mouth water.

Banana chips sold at a market stall

Once the bus entered Ayer Hitam, I knew I would be at my sister’s house soon. I would see the porcelain shops where my sister would buy locally made ceramic wares for her home.

Ceramic wares made locally at a nearby factory

The very next stop would be Kluang. This was where I first saw a train rumbling through the road right in front of me. It was a goods train and a very loud one at that. Kluang is a peaceful town. A little laidback but crowded on weekends and festive occasions. I still remember eating satay with my sister at the weekly night market at Padang Tembak. It was the thing to do then.

The old ticket booth at Kluang Railway Station

One of the many vibrant murals of Kluang Street Art

Kerepek — Local chips made from various fruits and vegetables

KAHANG AND BEYOND: MY JOURNEY GOES ON

In the past, my journey down Route 50 would stop at Kluang. However, in the last six months, my old friend has seen me off on a new chapter in my life, as I made my way further down its narrow lanes towards Mersing and The Boathouse Pulau Tioman.

Along this stretch, I’m treated to the calming sights of green palm oil plantations and lush forests. If I’m not in a rush, I like to take my foot off the accelerator, wind-down the windows and breathe in the fresh air.

A traditional coffee shop in Kahang

Around Kahang, it’s possible to spot wildlife as it is within the home range of tapirs and wild elephants. In fact, the town is the last stop before you enter the Endau Rompin National Park. I heard that back in the day, people here would eat wildlife, like wild boar or even tigers. Now, of course, it’s no longer allowed. I’ve never tried it, so don’t ask me what the meat taste like.

Signposts warning of tapirs and elephants, signaling the variety of wildlife that inhabit the area.

The plantations here are surrounded by electric fences and the road is dotted with signs warning motorists of elephants and tapirs. So far, I haven’t seen any. But who knows? As this part of Route 50 gets added to my regular commute, maybe I will soon.

If I do, you’ll be the first to know.